Best way to clean HK's?

[Sneakyman]

Hi, just got my first HK, a P2000sk in 9mm V3.

Im used to shooting and carying Glocks (a 17 9mm and a 27 .40) and field and detail stripping them to clean the thoroughly every once in a while. Also I dont feel i need to baby them since parts are cheap and available (good thing since ive had to replace a few things).

However, I love the HK and is now my daily CCW. First time out I shot an unreal group. Loved the trigger (I shoot revolvers a lot) and the overall feel of the gun. I felt so stupid as why i didnt get one from the start. Oh well.

Anyway, I was told to NOT attempt to detail strip my HK. If so, how do I clean it thorougly (enough so as I do not need to worry about reliability since its my CCW), with what products? I want to take care of this gun. Its definately a keeper.

Any help is appreciated.

I probably will get another HK soon!


for search purposes ( how to clean HK, cleaning your HK , H&K )

[HK_Shooter]

Just follow the cleaning instructions that is part of the owner manual.

That is what I do.

[Unbreakable]

I like CLP in the gun and on the outside of the slide. I use powder blast as a bore cleaner, and line the bore with Kroil when done. I never let CLP get in my Bore as I do not want teflon to build up there, and that is what CLP does. There should never be a reason to detail strip a USP ever unless you drop it in a soupy mud puddle (Been there). Buy a used one off someone for cheap and learn how to detail strip it from that. Don't monkey around with your carry weapon until you know exactly what you're doing. But it's easy once you do it a few times. Also as a lite solvent on delicate areas... I use Denatured Alcohol. It's like 10 bucks per gallon at the harware store. It's reall gentle, but cleans really well. I use it on the plastic lower. Pipe Cleaners and a nylon 22lr bore brush will also help get down into the guts and trigger parts better

[joehk]

I use what HK recommends, Mpro7 to clean the whole pistol, including the bore. Then lightly oil the slide/rails with a quality lubricant.

[LebbenB]

I use Hoppes #9 for cleaning. Barrel exterior and slide rails get TW25B grease for lube. All the other internals get a couple of drops of Militec.

Mike

[eicas]

Hoppes Elite for normal cleaning. Once every six months or so, the frame gets tossed in a bucket of SimpleGreen followed by a rinse and dry. Hasn't failed me in 20K/3years.

[Shakey]

Hoppe's #9 and Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube. There isn't a whole lot of effort to cleaning the USP and a detailed take down isn't required very often. These guns are simple to maintain. Relax and enjoy your new pistol.

[Sneakyman]

I have some Nitro Solvent still left is that ok to use on the inside parts of the frame too?

I also have some Hoppe Elite (think its the same as Mpro) so il probably use it. Its good stuff although not as powerfull as even CLP and its kinda wet/soapy but leaves surfaces nice and clean but not overly dry.

Thanks for the replies!

[Maurice]

I clean the bore every 400 rds, and detail clean every 800. I clean the feed ramp and extractor every 400rds as well. I use slide glide lite on the rail and on the hammer strut and as a general lubricant. Makes the gun work smoother in my opinion. I do a complete take down every 2500 rds now as I had problems with the firing pin getting clogged up.
CLP works well on the extractor and firing pin.

[JohnnyEgo]

Gunscrubber on the upper & barrel, followed by a little CLP. 409 on the lower followed by a little CLP. They get cleaned about once a month if I'm feeling motivated.

[Rigby470]

I too am looking at buying a USP .45 soon. How difficult is it to field strip and clean?

I am a total freak about cleaning my guns. It is something I love to do after a day at the range. I'll sit down in front of the TV and meticulously clean for hours. I'm not a fan of dirty guns. It may in fact work just fine. But it just seems undisciplined for me NOT to clean them this way.

[choochboost]

If you love to clean your guns then the USP was made for you. They are very easy to field strip. Even easier than Glock IMO.

[JohnnyEgo]

I too am looking at buying a USP .45 soon. How difficult is it to field strip and clean?

I am a total freak about cleaning my guns. It is something I love to do after a day at the range. I'll sit down in front of the TV and meticulously clean for hours. I'm not a fan of dirty guns. It may in fact work just fine. But it just seems undisciplined for me NOT to clean them this way.


I was like that too with my first few guns. By the time I needed a safe, I was well broken of that habit. The 1911s probably get cleaned the most. The HKs get cleaned the least, cause they can take it. At any rate, as has been said, the HK is stupid-easy to disassemble and clean.

[Jeffrock]

I use Mpro-7 to clean, CLP to lube afterwards.

[hkmike]

EEZOX FOR EVERTHING!!!!!

[DarthMuffin]

I also use Mpro-7 (or Hoppes if I'm out) to clean my SK. Militec-1 for lube, plus usually an ultra thin layer of grease (militec or mobil-1) on the rails, hammer slide, and locking lug.

Just a field strip and clean what you can reach is what I usually do. Every 2000ish rounds I will blast out the rest of the gun with gunscrubber or brake cleaner (and then re-lube), but I've never detail stripped the gun.

[ParChaser]

Your supposed to clean an HK??? ;-)

[Stoner]

In the almost one year Ive had my USP.45, Ive put about 2000 rounds through it. I clean the gun after every trip to the range. I use CLP too for cleaning the plastics and the slide and the magazines. I use Hoppes for the bore with either a nylon or a bronze bore brush, and lots of patches, old toothbrush with some CLP for areas like the extractor. Since I shoot FMJs, I also sometimes use a copper cleaner (cant remember the name now though) when the depostis in the bore are still thick even after using Hoppes.

Ohter than what the others have stated, I also use compressed air once in a while to blast out grime and dirty oil from the tight spots like the hammer area and the trigger assembly. It saves me having to detail strip the entire pistol.

The compressed air I use comes in cans that are readily available in Hardware stores

[SP-01]

1) Let it soak over night in the mixture below:

*1Part: K1-Odorless Kerosene
*1Part: Odorless Mineral Spirits (Varsol, Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Stoddard Solvent)
*1Part: ATF-Dexron III

2) Take it out and wipe it clean.

3) Run a few patches down the bore.

4) Add grease if you like.

This has worked for me for a long time.

[trenace]

BTW, has anyone ever tried comparing doubling up on the mineral spirits vs using the above sort of mixture?

I've never made the comparison, as I've never done it with kerosene included (haven't happened to have anyway) but it's very difficult to me to understand why kerosene would add different properties than mineral spirits. Sometimes "old recipes" get passed down forever without rhyme or reason, or for reasons that have long since passed.

E.g., the story of a woman who decided to wonder why her family recipe for special baked ham involved cutting off both ends first, her mother didn't know, her grandmother didn't know, but her great-grandmother, on being asked, said it was because her pan was too short. Ever since however, her descendents continued to cut even when not necessary, not knowing the original reason.

I'm not saying it's a FACT that a mixture of kerosene and mineral spirits won't have markedly different solvation properties than mineral spirits alone, but it does seem questionable, hence wondering if anyone ever did an experimental comparison. Thanks!

[NonConformist]

I've never had a problem with using CLP in my bore :confused:

[ChrisMcD]

You can always try the solution one of my Glock buddies swears by...strip it and throw it in the diswasher (preferably without really dirty dishes)

[CPR]

I'm a big fan of Slip 2000 for cleaning and lubrication.

It's supposedly non-toxic and works very well.

[tavo94]

Hoppe´s #9 and Break Free-....

[Jason R]

I haven't cleaned mine in a while...but they've never failed me yet. When I find time I clean them...I just go by the instruction manual.

[pdice]

Is anyone aware of any detailed instructions online that someone unfamiliar with cleaning an auto could follow?

[GoodOmens]

Is anyone aware of any detailed instructions online that someone unfamiliar with cleaning an auto could follow?

it's relatively easy:

1) field strip per manual instructions

2) soak a wire brushed tip rod in powder solvent and run down the barrel. Then run a few soaked patches through until they are clean.

3) use a rag dipped with powder solvent to wipe exterior surfaces and a soaked old soft toothbrush for the nooks and hard to get spots

4) wipe everything with a clean rag

5) oil the moving parts and inside of the slide with a good gun lube

[IMTHESKI]

I use MPRO7 in my old MP7 bottle (I refill it from the big bottle) and use an old can of Castrol gun oil I have had for some time know it seems to go a long way since I haven't seen it anywhere for a while. I also use nylon bore brushes, patches, Q-tips and a sylicone cloth. It keeps my collection looking as new as the day I got it. I like the MPRO7 because it does not smell, I am looking into a new oil though.

[SoFlaDeputy129]

I pretty much use Mil-comm products for the entire gun. The bore is the only time I use Butches Bore Shine from Lyman, it is the only bore cleaner I use. Mil-comm products are safe for all polymer framed guns and are non-toxic so I don't have to open all my windows when cleaning.

[perry72]

Some good info. here. I learned a few things.

[Kost]

The 'best way to clean your Heckler & Koch', are funny. :)

Nothing mystical, its a firearm - follow the User Manual instructions and use high quality cleaning and lubrication products and youre good to go! Im now using Weapon Shield for lubrication...I like better than the other oils I tried.

Shot safe and watch the front sight! :)

[Cadillac Johnson]

I'm a big fan of Slip 2000 for cleaning and lubrication.

It's supposedly non-toxic and works very well.

I had been using Slip2000 as well. I had both the CLP and the Extreme Weapons CLP.

I've since switched to Weapon Shield and couldn't be happier. Weapon Shield is quite a bit cheaper, and it certainly cleans better. I had just cleaned a gun with Slip maybe 3 days before I got the Weapon Shield. It was running clean patches through the bore. I re-cleaned everything with Weapon Shield and got a bunch for crap out of there.

If you switch, you will notice a difference in the cleaning of it, and from independant tests Weapon Shield has out performed everything when it comes to lubrication and rust prevention. The rust prevention suprised me, as Break-Free has always been the champ there.

Anyway, I do not work, or have any affiliation with Steel Shield Tech, I've just been really, really impressed with it.

IMO, if you like Slip, you'll love Weapon Shield.

[DayWlker7]

Otis combo cleaner/ lube on the slide with a tooth brush and patches. Light coat of combo cleaner/oil on the cleaned slide. Spray breach to muzzle with Break Free Powder Blast. Run Otis pull thru and patch soaked w/combo cleaner/lube. Run bronze brush thru 10 times. Spray breach to muzzle with Break Free Powder Blast. Run Otis pull thru and patch w/combo cleaner/lube thru clean barrel. Light coat of combo cleaner/oil on the cleaned barrel exterior. Clean magazine well with a drop or two of oil on patch and wipe down magazine parts. Clean and lube recoil spring and guide rod. Lube all contacts points especially slide rails. Reassemble and wipe exterior metal w/silicone cloth. Diassemble and clean barrel three days later. Add additional Powder Blast flush and Hoppe's Copper Solvent treatment every year to remove excess copper. Powder Blast or Gun Scrubber neutralizes the solvents.