Hard Chrome or NP3

[mrheythere]

I want to trick out a P7M8 for carry. Any opinions on which is nicer looking and/or more durable between FULL COVERAGE hard chrome from Tripps and NP3 from Robar? Any side by side pictures? Is the chrome more shiny and mirror like and thus harder to shoot? (this still will be a carry piece)

I am most interested in the comparision as it relates to a P7M8 and carry purposes.

Thanks.

[orfeo]

Can't say from personal experience, but I've seen pics of both and I think the NP3 looks better. The NP3 has more lubricative qualities or slipperiness than the hard chrome. Also, I've read about the metal actually being weakened by something during the hard-chroming process.

[nwusp45]

I like a dull hard chrome myself. NP3 can be months, while hard chrome can be a few days-if that matters to you.

[choochboost]

I have a USP finished in NP3 and I prefer the look of it over HC.

[ironchef]

Borrowed this pic from one of Limey's posts. To me, the hard chrome looks nicer. The NP3 looks a little dark and matte. For carry purposes, I think the hard chrome isn't apt to wear as easily as NP3 based on hardness characteristics.

I believe Limey states the NP3 is on the left, Tripp's hard chrome in the middle. The right piece is factory. You be the judge.
http://www.parkcitiestactical.com/album/00000694/P7s_NNP3HC2.jpg

[ironchef]

This one is jsbowen's Tripp hard chrome. Every time I look at this pic, it pretty much sells me on HC...:D
http://office.fiveninesgroup.com/p7.jpg

[CZ-75]

Hard Chrome will resist scratches better than NP3.

NP3 has built it lubricity which makes it really easy to keep clean.

Hard chrome can be shiny (brushed flats) or Matte.

NP3 has a duller gray look to it.

I opted for Trips hard chrome in matte. You really can't go wrong with either finish.

[Tungsten]

This is a photo of my Springfield XD 9mm that I had Robar do in their NP3 finish:

http://www.tngunowners.com/photos/data//2/medium/xd9_robar_01.jpg (http://www.tngunowners.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=368&size=big&cat=recent&limit=recent)

It is definitely slick to the touch and appears to clean up very easily. I have yet to fire the gun since it returned from Robar as I am not sure I will be keeping it and feel that an unfired gun is likely to bring more on a sale than a fired one would.

Anyway, NP3 might be a little too slick to the touch as I experienced difficulty racking the slide the first few times I played with the XD upon arrival. I had to force myself to grip the slide much tighter and definitely by the cocking serrations.

The word from a few people that I know who have both NP3 and Hard Chrome coated guns is that the Hard Chrome wins out for a handgun that will see daily carry as the finish is much more resistant to scrapes and scuffs. If I have any of my firearms refinished again soon, I'll probably give Hard Chrome a try instead and see how it stacks up.

[choochboost]

That is a very HC looking NP3 pistol. NP3 is hard to take pictures of, it's darker than it appears in pictures.

[AGG]

+1 on NP3!

[230GrainRemedy]

I have both. Hard chrome is a white/gray color and quite durable on my USPc that I carry daily. NP3 is darker, duck tape gray in color but quite slick, easy to clean as has been said, and makes the action/operation seem like its been to a custom shop. My Sig 45 lower has NP3 and it was the best thing I could have ever done to it. Its is just a step below the durability of hard chrome probably not really much difference, just do you want the teflon in the finish or not. Rockwell hardness is nearly the same, cost is a bit more for NP3. Both have good customer service, especially Robar. I will likely send them about 4 barrels for NP3 soon, it improves the tracking of the slide over them and eliminates the rub marks from firing in my experience.

[Kost]

+1 for Tripp Cobra Chrome - its alot harder/more durable than NP3 nickel.
In the matte finish with no brushed flat surfaces, its very non-reflective, and holds oil very well when stored.

Hard chrome does not make metal weak...millions of chrome wheels on vehicles world wide by every auto maker, Im sure one realizes those chrome wheels have lives at stake!

Rockwell C hardness of Tripp Research hard chrome is RC 70-75.
Rockwell C hardness of Robar NP3 nickel is RC 48-51.
A heat treated frame is usually RC 28-32.
Hammers are generally RC 48-52.
Sears are usually around RC 56.

Firearm components are sometimes medium carbon steels (4130, 4140) or mild steels.
These materials are at the RC 38-42 range

Hard chrome is the hardest of the electroplating finishes and the wear characteristics are unequaled. It ends the discussion for the most durable firearm finish.

New kid on the block called IonBond is in the low 80 Rockwell C hardness is on the expensive side...Im sure its worth it tho.

[softmentor]

Great info. since I'm mulling this over for my new usp 45 a couple of more questions.
1) in the pictures above, it looks like you can still read all the engraving on the slide. Can you still read all the serial # and date code and everything after hard chrome? After NP3?
2) can you have other parts done, like the decock and slide release levers, and the hammer?
Thanks
Arthur

[ironchef]

Arthur,

I think most any major metal piece off a USP could be NP3'd or hard chromed. I think the sky is the limit depending on budget and overall gaudiness, LOL :D

[Kost]

1 - Yes you can read the proof marks/serial numbers after plating, the pictures show they can because they are fairly deep on the PSP/P7, the USP proof marks/serial numbers are very shallow and they cant be seen in photos as easy, but can still be read when needed.

2- Most all metal parts can be plated, springs cant be plated for obvious reason. (USP has a rubber tipped hammer so they typically wont be plated)

[sfguard]

Stuff I have sent to Tripp has came back very pretty I have never had any experience with robar

[medbill]

I know its not an HK but its had NP3 on it since just about when they first started doing it back in the early 90's late 80's. This was my daily carry for at least 10 years, IWB. No wear, no rust and cleans easy. The poor metal finish is Colt's fault not NP3. This is a lightweight Colt Agent.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a295/medbill/DSCN0982.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a295/medbill/DSCN0984.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a295/medbill/DSCN0986.jpg

[Germanic]

I went with Tripps Hard Chrome with brushed flats. Great service and turnaround was around 2 weeks. They're great folks to work with.

http://www.parkcitiestactical.com/album/00001588/Tripps_P7M8s.jpg

[kraigster414]

Over the years I have tried many different after-market finishes with varying degrees of success. Today, the only finish that looks and perfroms to my expectations is Robar's NP3 - a nickel/Teflon hard as a rock finish - nearly as hard as hard chrome but IMHO its matte grey color is more aesthetically pleasing than bright hard chrome and best of all, it wears extremely well. Plus, is excellect lubricity means very little lube/oil is required (can't say that about hard chrome per se). As for Robar's customer service, I have found none better. They are terrific and for the reasons above, I keep going back for more.

Below is a Glock 27 with a NP3'd slide and barrel.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/kraigster414/Glock%2027/glockmtac.jpg

[mrheythere]

This is an interesting thread to read!

Kraigster, did you ever try a hard chrome finish from or similar to Tripps? If so, I am just curious as to why you would so strongly favor the NP3 over it.

Thanks!

[medbill]

I went with Tripps Hard Chrome with brushed flats. Great service and turnaround was around 2 weeks. They're great folks to work with.

http://www.parkcitiestactical.com/album/00001588/Tripps_P7M8s.jpg

Beautiful!

[ironchef]

Took the words right out of my mouth. :D

[kraigster414]

This is an interesting thread to read!

Kraigster, did you ever try a hard chrome finish from or similar to Tripps? If so, I am just curious as to why you would so strongly favor the NP3 over it.

Thanks!

NP3 requires very little in the way of lubrication/oil - virtually none to be honest. That is not true with hard chrome which is essentially equal to conventional bluing in terms of lubricity, i.e, you still need a a good amount oil or lube on your semi auto to ensure reliable functioning and reduced wear depending on tolerances and other factors. For me, that's and added plus. Combined with Robar's terrific (and consistent) quality control and willingness to work with you on special requests, makes them my re-finisher of choice. Yes, I have had guns hard chromed in the past and if maximum hardness is what you want, HC can't be beat. It too is an excellent finish and very attractive. I just prefer NP3.

[Kost]

ALL firearms, blue, parkerized, nickel(NP3), hard chrome, titanium, plated ALL need to have some lubrication as oil/grease. Running any firearm dry is asking for trouble/malfunctions. Oil them all for best results! http://hkpro.com/forum/images/icons/icon12.gif

[kraigster414]

ALL firearms, blue, parkerized, nickel(NP3), hard chrome, titanium, plated ALL need to have some lubrication as oil/grease. Running any firearm dry is asking for trouble/malfunctions. Oil them all for best results! http://hkpro.com/forum/images/icons/icon12.gif

Nobody is saying run a gun dry. My point was that less lubrication is required with NP3 (vice a blued or hard chromed gun all things being equal) and if you acquire a gun that has been NP3'd, you will appreciate that advantage immediately. I also recommend for anyone interested, that you read up on NP3 at the Robar site, quite interesting.

http://www.robarguns.com/

[Kowboy]

Kost and Kraig:

Apparently Robar disagrees with both of you:

From their FAQ:

"How do I maintain my refinished firearm?
We suggest maintaining the exterior as you would a blued firearm to keep them in the best condition possible! If you have a firearm completely refinished in NP3, a period of 200 to 300 rounds is typically required for break in with quality gun oil or grease. After this period you can run your weapon lightly lubricated or completely dry! If you've chosen Roguard, the same number of rounds apply however, we suggest keeping minimal amount of synthetic lubricant in the higher wearing areas."

Kowboy

[Kost]

Thats ok if Robar says to run weapons with little/no oil with the NP3 nickel/teflon. No matter what finish, I treat them all the same - they all get oiled. Wonder if my NP3 pistols would show less wear if I run them dry, instead of with oil...doubt it. ;)

[choochboost]

Thats ok if Robar says to run weapons with little/no oil with the NP3 nickel/teflon. No matter what finish, I treat them all the same - they all get oiled. Wonder if my NP3 pistols would show less wear if I run them dry, instead of with oil...doubt it. ;)
Same here my NP3'd pistol is lubed the same as the rest.

[kraigster414]

Kost and Kraig:

Apparently Robar disagrees with both of you:

From their FAQ:

"How do I maintain my refinished firearm?
We suggest maintaining the exterior as you would a blued firearm to keep them in the best condition possible! If you have a firearm completely refinished in NP3, a period of 200 to 300 rounds is typically required for break in with quality gun oil or grease. After this period you can run your weapon lightly lubricated or completely dry! If you've chosen Roguard, the same number of rounds apply however, we suggest keeping minimal amount of synthetic lubricant in the higher wearing areas."

Kowboy

Kowboy, not to beat a dead horse here but I said essentially the same thing Robar did. :)

[kashton]

I prefer NP3. Here is a close up shot of NP3 finish (It is on a glock 27 though but it will give you an idea of the color):

http://www.hunt101.com/img/516163.jpg (http://www.hunt101.com/?p=516163&c=500&z=1)

[kraigster414]

I prefer NP3. Here is a close up shot of NP3 finish (It is on a glock 27 though but it will give you an idea of the color):

http://www.hunt101.com/img/516163.jpg (http://www.hunt101.com/?p=516163&c=500&z=1)


Hey! That's MY gun! :)

[kashton]

LOl, I thought it was a great picture and I didn't want to have to link a thread, please forgive me =)

[kraigster414]

LOl, I thought it was a great picture and I didn't want to have to link a thread, please forgive me =)

No problem. Just make sure you use the Wolf non-captured recoil assembly in that sucker and not that POS OEM captured recoil assembly. :)

[bonesaw]

These threads hurt my brain. I thought I had my mind made up to go with Robar for NP3, but then I see another gorgeous P7 done by Tripp and I start to wonder why I should bother with the slightly higher cost and reportedly longer turnaround time.

You know the big problem with P7 people is, the people with HC P7s seem to be better photographers and are more inclined to post a gorgeous photo of their gorgeous weapons. There really needs to be more high-quality pics of NP3 in these threads. :/

[kraigster414]

"There really needs to be more high-quality pics of NP3 in these threads. "

Well, EXCUUUSE me! As for Robar's turnaround time, I think it's worth it. (What is it about this need for immediate gratification? :)) The principal advantages of hard chrome (as I have used Tripp in the past myself) is the additional (but not significant unless you are really hard on guns) Rockwell hardness, price (but not a big difference IMHO), and perhaps turnaround time if we're talking Tripp vs. Robar. Robar by the way does expedite LE orders and offers a LE discount if that applies to you. Othewise, NP3 is as aesthetically pleasing as hardchrome, some say more so, is slick as grease, requires less oil, and wears extremely well. It remains my finish of choice. And Robar's quality control standards are second to none.

[bonesaw]

"There really needs to be more high-quality pics of NP3 in these threads. "

Well, EXCUUUSE me! As for Robar's turnaround time, I think it's worth it. (What is about this need for immediate gratification? :)) The principal advantages of hard chrome (as I have used Tripp in the past myself) is the additional (but not significant unless you are really hard on guns) Rockwell hardness, price (but not a big difference IMHO), and perhaps turnaround time if we're talking Tripp vs. Robar. Robar by the way does expedite LE orders and offers a LE discount if that applies to you. Othewise, NP3 is as aesthetically pleasing as hardchrome, some say more so, is slick as grease, requires less oil, and wears extremely well. It remains my finish of choice. And Robar's quality control standards are second to none.

Okay! I'm sold! It's off to Robar...at least until I see another picture of somebody's HC'd P7. Then I'll have more angst. :)

[kraigster414]

Okay! I'm sold! It's off to Robar...at least until I see another picture of somebody's HC'd P7. Then I'll have more angst. :)

Forget the angst. Just do it! :) Robar has been in this business for a long time and there's a reason. Keep in mind, when they NP3 the slide, they also NP3 the slide's internal parts. And if you have any other misc. parts from other guns that you want to NP3, now is the time to do it. Include with your order.

[silversport]

what don't they NP3 when you send them your pistol??? I am still on the fence on this myself...Hard chrome is tough but the added lubricity of NP3 and the blessings from HK for Robar...confusing!
Bill

[JLStorm]

I was almost sold on NP3, even though I did think hard chrome looks better. Then I read a few accounts of robar being so slick that slingshotting or overhanding the slide was an issue because their hands were slipping of the slide during high stress drills and maneuvers, that was enough to make me shy away from it. I like the lubricity of the teflon, but I dont want a slick gun...it just seems like a liability to me.

[kraigster414]

I was almost sold on NP3, even though I did think hard chrome looks better. Then I read a few accounts of robar being so slick that slingshotting or overhanding the slide was an issue because their hands were slipping of the slide during high stress drills and maneuvers, that was enough to make me shy away from it. I like the lubricity of the teflon, but I dont want a slick gun...it just seems like a liability to me.

I have never had that problem with NP3 and I have never heard of anyone having that problem with NP3. It could be gun-specific, i.e., lack of adequate gripping surface on the slide. I have NP3 on a Glock and an XD, no problems whatsoever. Be careful of those "few accounts." Some people because of lack of strength in their hands due to age or arthritis, and yes, some of the "fairer sex" could have a problem I suppose but they more than likely would have a problem with a non-NP3 gun as well. But you sound healthy enough. :) As to aesthetics, I personally prefer the more subtle matte gray of NP3 over shinier hard chrome. Bottom line, both are excellent choices. I just think that NP3 offers more (but that's just me).

[choochboost]

It can be a problem especially on a USP where the slide serrations are relatively shallow. I wouldn't know about the P7. Kraigster, you've not had this problem with your Glock before the serrations are significantly deeper. If you want NP3 on a USP you might consider having Robar mill the serrations a little deeper.

what don't they NP3 when you send them your pistol???
Bill
Its up to you if you want the internals done. They won't do springs and will plug the barrel to protect the bore.

[kraigster414]

It can be a problem especially on a USP where the slide serrations are relatively shallow. I wouldn't know about the P7. Kraigster, you've not had this problem with your Glock before the serrations are significantly deeper. If you want NP3 on a USP you might consider having Robar mill the serrations a little deeper.


Its up to you if you want the internals done. They won't do springs and will plug the barrel to protect the bore.

Chooch, you are absolutely correct in that I have not had experience with NP3'ing an HK. But then again, I like the factory finish just fine on my HK P2000 and have no intention of re-finishing it. I should also mention that many folks have had their Sigs NP'3d and no reports of problems. For me, an HK is like a meal at a fine restaurant. I assume it has been properly seasoned in the kitchen and to alter the recipe by adding a lot of salt or pepper would be a sacrilege (to the chef anyway). :) I'd really have to experience extreme wear before considering re-finishing and then I would probably want to match the original finish to the extent possible - something along the line of Robar's Roguard or Tripp's CobraCoat. But again, that's just me. Other "less worthy" guns just seem to beg for upgrades.

[Fatboy9]

I should be getting my P7 back from Robar in the next week or so. I went with NP3. I almost sent it to Tripp for his HC. It was tough, they both look nice but I like the look of NP3 and the warranty. I will post some pic when I get it back.

[kraigster414]

I should be getting my P7 back from Robar in the next week or so. I went with NP3. I almost sent it to Tripp for his HC. It was tough, they both look nice but I like the look of NP3 and the warranty. I will post some pic when I get it back.

Your P7 is probably in same batch as my XD45 slide and barrel. I expect mine back in the next week or so too. I think you will like the NP3 very much. Robar is a great company to work with. I have been very pleased. 'Looking forward to seeing your pics.

[Mark71]

I should be getting my P7 back from Robar in the next week or so. I went with NP3. I almost sent it to Tripp for his HC. It was tough, they both look nice but I like the look of NP3 and the warranty. I will post some pic when I get it back.

I am looking forward to seeing some pics as my P7M8 is in need of a finish job. Still debating between HC or the NP3.

[Powder Burns]

Satin/flat black finish FTW. Tenifer, Nitron, whatever. Personally I'm trying to conceal the pistol not show it off, so bright finishes like hard chrome and kin don't work for me. Of course if you want a display piece go ahead. I'd hate to scratch or damage a carry pistol as nice looking as germanic's or jsbowen's p7m8s are. As far as scratching the finish goes however, hard chrome or glock's tenifer finish probably take the cake as far as durability goes. I'm not too pleased with the factory finish from HK. Now if i can do something about this stainless s&w 629...it amazes me how nobody has put a hunting handgun on the market speficially for that purpose with a dark or camo finish. (Contenders dont count, they are single shot carbines. :P )

[kraigster414]

Satin/flat black finish FTW. Tenifer, Nitron, whatever. Personally I'm trying to conceal the pistol not show it off, so bright finishes like hard chrome and kin don't work for me. Of course if you want a display piece go ahead. I'd hate to scratch or damage a carry pistol as nice looking as germanic's or jsbowen's p7m8s are. As far as scratching the finish goes however, hard chrome or glock's tenifer finish probably take the cake as far as durability goes. I'm not too pleased with the factory finish from HK. Now if i can do something about this stainless s&w 629...it amazes me how nobody has put a hunting handgun on the market speficially for that purpose with a dark or camo finish. (Contenders dont count, they are single shot carbines. :P )

'Don't mean to bust your patoonies :) but Glock's Tenifer is not a finish. It is chemistry impregnated into the base metal, actually fairly deep. So even if you remove the blackened Glock finish, the Tenifer is still resident in the metal and provides not only hardness but excellent rust resistence. Tenifer is a trade name. It is the same thing at Melonite applied to the Springfield XD and other firearms.

As to the stock black vs. shiny argument, many feel the same way you do but I think it's more of an aesthetics vs. a functionality/concealment decision. If you are carrying a weapon under extreme climatic conditions, it's hard to beat an NP3 or hard chrome gun unless you really don't give a rat's a--.

[Kost]

Matte Cobra Chrome is not shiny, in fact its non-reflective with no oil on it, in a dark room with street lights coming thru the window, the black HE actually reflects more light off its flat surfaces than Cobra Chrome.

The shiny argument does not hold water

[kraigster414]

Matte Cobra Chrome is not shiny, in fact its non-reflective with no oil on it, in a dark room with street lights coming thru the window, the black HE actually reflects more light off its flat surfaces than Cobra Chrome.

The shiny argument does not hold water

That is correct. Most (but not all) hard chrome providers will give you an option of matte or shiny.

[Kost]

...it amazes me how nobody has put a hunting handgun on the market speficially for that purpose with a dark or camo finish....Too bad Colt does not make the Anaconda 8" RealTree anymore. :(

http://www.hyattgunshop.com/images/Z5266%20Colt%20Anaconda%2044Mag/P1030125.JPG

[JLStorm]

Too bad Colt does not make the Anaconda 8" RealTree anymore. :(

http://www.hyattgunshop.com/images/Z5266%20Colt%20Anaconda%2044Mag/P1030125.JPG

There are tons of companies out there that due camo duracoat on weapons, get your gun of choice and have a camo job done to match whatever area you will be using it in, I can give you some names if you need them.

[Tb]

So what does Tripps charge to HC a complete P7?

[Mark71]

So what does Tripps charge to HC a complete P7?

http://www.trippresearch.com/products/pricing/REFINISHING%20PRICES.htm

Mags are $15 each

[Powder Burns]

That colt is a sexy bitch! Yeah i've thought about dipping my revolver but I'd be much more inclined to buy a factory job like that anaconda..i think s&w is making a black 460xvr for hunting, and dan wesson had a .445 supermag in all black too. Still seems like a pretty lucrative market, I wonder what everyone is waiting for. But yeah JL, who does this camo duracoat stuff, im in south eastern usa..

[JLStorm]

That colt is a sexy bitch! Yeah i've thought about dipping my revolver but I'd be much more inclined to buy a factory job like that anaconda..i think s&w is making a black 460xvr for hunting, and dan wesson had a .445 supermag in all black too. Still seems like a pretty lucrative market, I wonder what everyone is waiting for. But yeah JL, who does this camo duracoat stuff, im in south eastern usa..

I know a lot of guys that swear by LTM refinishing for more complex camo jobs. Their website is down at the moment, but just google LTM refinishing for more info. They are in MO I believe, which obviously isnt the SE. There are many many refinishers that use duracoat or other types of coatings for camo jobs all over, your local smith may know of some good local guys. All I know is if it was my gun I would send it to LTM.

[Dehammer]

Robbie Barkman gave me the nickel tour of Robar when I first moved out to the Phoenix area and I was impressed enough to leave my AUG for the NP3 finish on the internals and Rogard the receiver and barrel. That was a mistake.

Someone dropped the bolt carrier and dented the corner. The floor manager then proceeded to arrogantly with a straight face tell me 'we don't drop things around here'. I was also extremely disappointed that every single part that was refinished was hand engraved with a number. Without my permission they proceeded to Rogard half of my plastic black furniture....black. Wanted an additional $200+ to do the rest. All of this after several delays over a period of over a month including a 'false alarm' to pick up my rifle before they even started.

I know of two other local industry professionals that have even worse experiences than I have.

Normally I just read this forum but then the subject of Robar comes up within an earshot I make an effort to voice my experience.

[kraigster414]

Robbie Barkman gave me the nickel tour of Robar when I first moved out to the Phoenix area and I was impressed enough to leave my AUG for the NP3 finish on the internals and Rogard the receiver and barrel. That was a mistake.

Someone dropped the bolt carrier and dented the corner. The floor manager then proceeded to arrogantly with a straight face tell me 'we don't drop things around here'. I was also extremely disappointed that every single part that was refinished was hand engraved with a number. Without my permission they proceeded to Rogard half of my plastic black furniture....black. Wanted an additional $200+ to do the rest. All of this after several delays over a period of over a month including a 'false alarm' to pick up my rifle before they even started.

I know of two other local industry professionals that have even worse experiences than I have.

Normally I just read this forum but then the subject of Robar comes up within an earshot I make an effort to voice my experience.

In all the time (years) I have been reading and participating in the various gun forums, this is the first complaint against Robar I have ever come across though admittedly a lot of stuff escapes my attention. "Stuff" happens even with the best and it sounds like a meteorite out of 10 gazillion houses, decided yours is the one it wanted to land on. I have had 4 guns refinished by Robar and the work (Roguard and NP3) in each case, exceeded my expectations.

Even Rolls Royce has its detractors and you would be hard pressed to convince me that your experience was/is the norm. Robar has an excellent reputation, they have been around a LONG, LONG time (and you don't survive unless you can deliver and keep folks happy), and I have found their customer service second to none. At this time, they are one of the few after-market platers I will let touch my guns.

They (Robar) just NP3'd my XD45 and as usual, it came out beautiful.

[mrheythere]

I started this post with an eye toward doing my P7M8. I did my SIG first.

I just got my Sig P220 back from Robar for a slide NP3 job. Robar coordinated sending it to Bruce Gray for trigger work. Customer service from both was OUTSTANDING.

The NP3 work was OUTSTANDING. Robar service people were OUTSTANDING.

Prompt and responsive. I would use them again with high confidence.

NP3 looks a lot like titanium. I have posted the SIG with a Brian Tighe custom knife in which the bolsters and pocket clip are titanium. It is nearly the exact same shade as the NP3. Dull gray but wonderful to behold. BTW, after shooting, the slide wipes clean!

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee26/mrheythere/P1010007.jpg

[fiddletown]

I'd opt for hard chrome. I think it's a tougher finish than NP3 and would therefore be better suited for a "hard use" gun.

[Dehammer]

In all the time (years) I have been reading and participating in the various gun forums, this is the first complaint against Robar I have ever come across though admittedly a lot of stuff escapes my attention. "Stuff" happens even with the best and it sounds like a meteorite out of 10 gazillion houses, decided yours is the one it wanted to land on. I have had 4 guns refinished by Robar and the work (Roguard and NP3) in each case, exceeded my expectations.

Even Rolls Royce has its detractors and you would be hard pressed to convince me that your experience was/is the norm. Robar has an excellent reputation, they have been around a LONG, LONG time (and you don't survive unless you can deliver and keep folks happy), and I have found their customer service second to none. At this time, they are one of the few after-market platers I will let touch my guns.

They (Robar) just NP3'd my XD45 and as usual, it came out beautiful.

Not trying to convince anyone of anything. I am just relating my personal experience. I know enough people that have done business professionally and privately with them to know Robar ain't all rosey, I am not alone, and I am not just the unlucky one of a million. I am sure the majority of the work they do is fine, as it was with your projects. I can't tolerate a company that pulled the **** on me like Robar did.

NP3 is a teflon impregnated electroless nickel (if I remember right) and it is softer and wears more than the hard chrome. Both are good looking finishes but I do prefer the wear resistance and looks of the hard chrome. Tripps finishes look nice and I will probably send off my new P7 (finally got one!) for the hard chrome.

[kraigster414]

NP3 is a Teflon/Nickel hybrid finish. The advantage over hard chrome is its increased lubricity - far less oil and grease required. The advantage of hard chrome is its hardness. If your weapon is exposed to SERIOUS hard wear, then hard chrome might be the better choice. Personally for me, I prefer NP3. It is the bridge in wearability between today's baked on/sprayed on finishes and hard chrome. Plenty hard for me and grease and sludge seem to roll right off it. I also think it is very aesthetically pleasing and coats a gun more uniformaly.

[loupav]

+ 1 NP3

[choochboost]

I know enough people that have done business professionally and privately with them to know Robar ain't all rosey, I am not alone, and I am not just the unlucky one of a million. I am sure the majority of the work they do is fine, as it was with your projects. I can't tolerate a company that pulled the **** on me like Robar did.

...Both are good looking finishes but I do prefer the wear resistance and looks of the hard chrome. Tripps finishes look nice and I will probably send off my new P7 (finally got one!) for the hard chrome.
That's funny, cause I've heard many more negative reviews of Tripp than Ford's.

[Carrots]

Wanted to bump this to get some more recent opinions and to ask a question - Why is matte HC with brushed flats a much more popular choice than having the whole pistol in brushed HC?

[everett-j]

+1 hard chrome.

[cjr02]

I've had P7's in both. My next will be NP3. I like the color better,and cleaning was easier. I like that it looks slightly different than all the other guns out there- HC looks a lot like stainless. I didn't run it dry, but it was darn close. I'll be sending them other guns, too.

[benderx4]

Why is matte HC with brushed flats a much more popular choice than having the whole pistol in brushed HC?


I think it's a matter of personal preference - the two-tone effect looks cool. I'm going to HC a M8 at Fords to get rid of the mill mark and warning, and I'm going to try the brushed HC with polished flats. I have another P7 being finished in NP3 so I'll be able to compare them side by side in aesthetics and performance.

[THX2008]

I think it's a matter of personal preference - the two-tone effect looks cool. I'm going to HC a M8 at Fords to get rid of the mill mark and warning, and I'm going to try the brushed HC with polished flats. I have another P7 being finished in NP3 so I'll be able to compare them side by side in aesthetics and performance.

My buddy had the flats of his P7 done in Ford's "Bright (high polish)" and let me tell you it is sharp. There's an M13 (http://www.fordsguns.com/index-gun28.htm) pictured on Ford's site with the same combo- polished flats, matte rounds. When Horace says bright, he means it. You could use the slide to shave with. Interestingly, my friend's roll marks stayed pretty well intact, despite the extra polishing.

Looking forward to some pics Bender.

[benderx4]

Pics will be forthcoming. Don't know if your buddy had this done or not, but Fords is also one of the only refinishers that will reingrave the slide should you choose to do so. This is nice since I'm having them remove more material by taking off the mill mark.

This would all be done already if I hadn't found another M8 with my name on it.