Frame/Receiver cleaning

[hags]

What do you guys use to clean the frames/receivers on HKs?
Obviously I'm not wanting to damage anything.
Brake Cleaner, mass air flow sensor cleaner, mineral spirits.....what?

[harrydog]

I use M-Pro7 on everything. Non-toxic, no odor, safe for plastics, yet it cleans very well.

[usp9c]

I tried Hoppes #9 when I first got my gun home but it is very oily so then I used kerosine since it evaporates quickly and it left it feeling clean. I don't know if that is the best thing to use but I doubt it would cause any trouble.
I actually hosed my gun out in a clean solvent tank and then blowed it out with compressed air. That got a lot of junk out of the cracks and corners that I had not been able to get out with a nylon brush.
Have fun.

[Brian1979]

Even that M-pro7 doesnt say it is safe for plastics. I am scared to use anything other then CLP on it myself. I researched this topic and read everything there is on this forum and still cant come up with a clear winner.

As expensive as that M-pro stuff is I wont be buying it because it is way over priced. There has to be something more common that isnt liquid gold which will work.

I know there are DIY mixes that the 1911 guys use made from Transmission fluid and a combo of other things. I think they called it Ed's Red and this is supposed to not only clean but also treat the metal for corrosion prevention. I dont think it is plastic safe and they make a point of storing it in gas approved plastic jugs.

Not saying I will use this but there has to be a substitute to buying $30 bottles of cleaner labeled for guns.

I think I am going to try this stuff since it seems to be a great product that isnt harsh at all on anything from leather to wood. On the other hand I get Break Free stuff for free and have tons of it on hand so I could just use it liberally in the frame and air compress it clean.

http://www.ballistol.com/ordernow.html

[hags]

Even that M-pro7 doesnt say it is safe for plastics. I am scared to use anything other then CLP on it myself. I researched this topic and read everything there is on this forum and still cant come up with a clear winner.

As expensive as that M-pro stuff is I wont be buying it because it is way over priced. There has to be something more common that isnt liquid gold which will work.

Kinda where I'm at. I know the MAF sensor cleaner is safe but I'd like to scrub the factory grease and powder residue off/out of it.

[Brian1979]

I guess we need to find an alternative cleaner that can be bought locally from an auto store etc. I imagine there has to be some product out there that will do the job.

Dont get me wrong I dont want to screw up an expensive gun and if I end finding the best thing to do is buy a specific gun cleaner then I will. I just want to explore other options first because I find it hard to believe that any regular cleaner wont do the same job.


I will be calling HK today anyway and will ask them what they think is good.

[hags]

I guess we need to find an alternative cleaner that can be bought locally from an auto store etc. I imagine there has to be some product out there that will do the job.

Dont get me wrong I dont want to screw up an expensive gun and if I end finding the best thing to do is buy a specific gun cleaner then I will. I just want to explore other options first because I find it hard to believe that any regular cleaner wont do the same job.


I will be calling HK today anyway and will ask them what they think is good.

If you do so would you be so gracious as to post their recommendation?

[Kochaholic]

I guess we need to find an alternative cleaner that can be bought locally from an auto store etc. I imagine there has to be some product out there that will do the job.

Dont get me wrong I dont want to screw up an expensive gun and if I end finding the best thing to do is buy a specific gun cleaner then I will. I just want to explore other options first because I find it hard to believe that any regular cleaner wont do the same job.


I will be calling HK today anyway and will ask them what they think is good.

Consider it found. It's called Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner.

[razerface]

the little book says "any solvent you can safely put your hands in" (from memory)

[sqidd]

Consider it found. It's called Non-Chlorinated brake cleaner.

Not all are created equal though. I work on roadrace shocks for a living and clean, clean, clean is the name of the game. But you are cleaning something that has steel, aluminum, stainless steel, titanium, titanium nitrided surfaces, anodized surfaces, powdercoated surfaces, plastic of all kinds, Teflon, rubber and a couple different kinds of O-ring materials. When I got into the business I went through just about every kind of brake cleaner on the planet to find what works that won’t destroy parts and won’t kill you if you breath it.

PartsMaster #1733 is what I use full time. Make sure it’s the blue can though.

http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/part_detail.jsp?PART_HDR_ID=21324

I used to use the Wurth stuff but it was quite a bit more expensive and I can buy the PartsMaster down the street where I have an account.

http://www.proracestore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1520

Gotta make sure it’s the red can though.

They both work incredibly well and all I do is simple hose down everything with it, hit it with a tooth brush, run a bore snake through it and blow everything off with compressed air. Neither of these evaporate very quickly (I imagine this is the expense of having “safe” stuff to work with) so compressed air is nice but not mandatory. Then I hit everything with a moving part with some lube and put it all back together.

Works great.

[AWD]

Weaponshield gets it clean, a little pricey but it doesn't stink and it actually lubes very well.

AWD

[tremiles]

I use a soft nylon bristled toothbrush lightly moistened with Breakfree CLP to clean the powder residue and any sticky gunk from the frame of my USP 40 and wipe it off with a lint free microfiber cloth.

[Brian1979]

Well then I wont worry about an actual cleaner. It seems that with a brush and a bunch of CLP followed by compressed air works fine. I have so much CLP that I use the Break Free to clean and the Weapon Shield to lube so I should be well covered.

I tried to call HK today and didnt get through at all after several tries. I will try through this week since I am sure Mon is busy for them.

[harrydog]

Even that M-pro7 doesnt say it is safe for plastics. I am scared to use anything other then CLP on it myself.



I've been using it for years with no problems. It's one of the safest cleaners out there. This is from the M-Pro7 website:

M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner will not harm polymers, rubber, nylon, bone or most other firearm components. In fact, you could safely drop your entire firearm into an ultrasonic or parts washing tank. However, we recommend field stripping the firearm and removing any grips or stocks before immersion.


Also, think about this. It comes in a plastic bottle.
I use weaponshield on the slide rails and barrel and other metal components but I don't really like to use it to clean the plastic receiver because it's also a lube and I don't really want the polymer receiver itself to be "lubed". Even if you blow it out, there is still residue on the inside of the receiver which can collect burnt powder, etc. and create sludge build up in hard to reach places. M-Pro7 leaves the receiver dry, as it should be.

[apetrulis01]

M-Pro7 for the frame and slide. Hoppes bore foam for the barrel (that stuff is amazing). I also use an air compressor to blow away the crud after I hit it with a tooth brush on the slide and frame.

Adam

[Brian1979]

I've been using it for years with no problems. It's one of the safest cleaners out there. This is from the M-Pro7 website:

M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner will not harm polymers, rubber, nylon, bone or most other firearm components. In fact, you could safely drop your entire firearm into an ultrasonic or parts washing tank. However, we recommend field stripping the firearm and removing any grips or stocks before immersion.


Also, think about this. It comes in a plastic bottle.
I use weaponshield on the slide rails and barrel and other metal components but I don't really like to use it to clean the plastic receiver because it's also a lube and I don't really want the polymer receiver itself to be "lubed". Even if you blow it out, there is still residue on the inside of the receiver which can collect burnt powder, etc. and create sludge build up in hard to reach places. M-Pro7 leaves the receiver dry, as it should be.

Any good places to buy it from for cheap?

I guess I dont really want to risk using anything not meant for guns and to save a few bucks to clean a $800 gun is sort of silly.

You make a good point about cleaning the inside and keeping it dry except for only where you want a drop or 2 of Weapon Shield. I would imagine the frame would start to collect crap pretty quick if it were all oiled.

[Brian1979]

Bingo!

Cheapest I have seen yet at half the cost of Brownells.

http://www.firstresponderproducts.com/mpro-gun-cleaner-trigger-spray-p-1117.html

[harrydog]

That's the cheapest I've seen it. I usually buy mine from Dillon Precision but I'll have to try those guys next time.
The thing is, a 32 oz bottle lasts me a long time. Probably close to 2 years. You really don't need to use a lot of it to get the job done.

[Brian1979]

Well I guess I wont buy 2 bottles then. I was just about to check out with 2 bottles in my cart so good thing I checked back here first.

Thanks.

[UncleBilly]

I found that cleaning the polymer frame is about the easiest thing clean, in the entire gun, carbon doesn't stick to it like a metal frame, I just put a little bit of BREAK FREE (CLP) on a patch and just wipe down the inside. Then use a Q-tip with a little BREAK FREE on it to get in the nooks and crannies. You don't need to go overboard with fancy expensive products. BREAK FREE is a good lube and cleaner and it won't hurt the polymer frame

[AviatorDave]

Any good places to buy it from for cheap?

I guess I dont really want to risk using anything not meant for guns and to save a few bucks to clean a $800 gun is sort of silly.

You make a good point about cleaning the inside and keeping it dry except for only where you want a drop or 2 of Weapon Shield. I would imagine the frame would start to collect crap pretty quick if it were all oiled.

The vast majority of them are only marketed for guns. In most cases they don't make the stuff, they called up a chemical company and asked "what do you have that will clean gunpowder residue and not melt plastics?" Then they put it in packaging with a gun on it and sell it in a sporting goods store for 2 or 3 times what it costs if you bought it by the gallon as "aircraft cleaner" or "auto parts solvent".

I found that instead of paying $15 for a can of "gun scrubber", I can spend the same $15 at (almost) at Wally World and take home a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and a box of 9mm for my MP5-N.

[harrydog]

Well I guess I wont buy 2 bottles then. I was just about to check out with 2 bottles in my cart so good thing I checked back here first.

Thanks.
Of course it all depends on how much you shoot and how often you clean your guns.

[Brian1979]

Of course it all depends on how much you shoot and how often you clean your guns.

Well its the only gun that I am going to use it on so it should last a long time. Not only that but the web site says you are supposed to use the stuff with in about 2 years or it degrades.

Shipping was $8 so that isnt too bad and since I found it at half the cost I will just order more when I need it again.

I feel better about using something that I know is safe and that you guys seem to like from experience.

Thanks again.

[Kost]

I clean my USP's like any other weapon, using Hoppe's to clean the gun powder off where its most heavy, then light coat of Weapon Shield. On the grip and rest of the out side, I actually use a clean damp cloth to wipe it down, sometime a soft swipe with an old soft tooth brush is needed in the checkering...thats about it.

I dont use cleaning solvent on every square inch of the outside, its just a waste of solvent. :)