im relatively new to the hk clone seen, not to firearms, but i just recently got me a ptr 91. i originally looked into the cetme, and i loved the price. i started doing my research, and well you have about a 50-50 shot of getting a good one or a hunk of junk. i was also told by the time you get one properly tuned and in working order you cold have gotten a new ptr and it be good to go out of the box. im sure it can be fixed, but what i would suggest from my limited research and knowledge is sell the c91 and put the money towards a ptr 91. i LOVE mine

 

Bolt gap is way small. You are looking for .012-.020.
As said above, you'd have enough money into it to replace it. If the gun is important to you it's definately fixable and you'd be looking at the cost of a new build to do it plus receiver cost. Depending on who did the job you could spend between $800-$1200 with the cost of a receiver added. Personally, I'd have it reworked. It's built on a surplus kit and therefore in spec contract parts. Generally these are considered superior to US made parts so you have a great start to a nice rifle. But make no bones about it. You aren't going to make money on this gun reworking it and then selling it. Ever.

 

You may be able to bump your gap way up with +6 or +8 rollers, IF they are not already in there. I would try that and a front sight fix first, but I would never consider such a rifle for anything but a trainer/plinker. Get a PTR 91 for the real deal, and as always, check your gap as soon as you acquire one of these guns, and keep a log as you shoot it

 

I'm not sure why you are looking to rebuild/replace this C91 rifle. You say you have owned it for 9 or 10 years and that it worked right out of the box and continues to work. Obviously you bought a shooter rifle and not an investment firearm when you chose the Century. The bolt gap is minimum but not out of spec. The HK G3 Armorer's Manual states on page 5 that "Head space is correct when the gap between bolt head and bolt head carrier amounts to 0.01--0.05mm (0.004--0.020 in.)." As Blitzkrieg states, some "plus" size rollers will increase the gap if that concerns you at this time. Just keep a watch on it in the future to ensure you catch it if it falls below 0.004 in. You also mention "...the front sight is off center, or the receiver is canted." Can you not zero the rifle? Does your point of aim/point of impact not coincide before the windage screw is maxed out to one side or the other? Again, if it cannot be zeroed, follow Blitzkrieg's advice and send the rifle to one of the HK smiths on this board for a front sight fix. I guess what I am saying is, if you had no roller block rifle at this time, I would advise getting a PTR91. But since you already own this rifle and you know that it is dependable, I would fix it. Then you could spend the difference, that you would put out in trading it for a new rifle, on more ammo for more shooting. JMHO. By the way, I believe your "EAJ" marked barrel is an HK barrel, but, if not, others will jump in here and correct me.

 

I agree with the others, it sounds like you have a decent rifle with a few minor problems. Better to fix those problems and keep shooting it. Get some + size rollers and a new locking piece to address the bolt gap issue.

I believe the "EAJ" marked barrel is a contract barrel, possibly FMP. The HK barrels should have a 4 digit manufacturing code and a proof mark (Eagle with N).

 

Good information, thanks! The iron sights are sighted in, but the rear sight is now maxed out to the right. Another question is how tight should the charging handle be to cock? I have handled MP5's and noticed that they are pretty easy to cock, as compared to mine.